How to Make a Quick & Easy Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag

How to Make a Quick & Easy Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag

Have you ever wanted a lightweight bag that can carry a big load?

Maybe you are heading out on a walk and don’t have that perfect bag for a quilt so you can spread out and enjoy the fresh air in a sunny field.

This reversible, Crossbody Hobo Bag is a cinch to make using two 18″ squares from a fabric panel and some coordinating fabric! Did I mention that it’s reversible too?

The straps are tied together on the shoulder after the bag is complete so you can adjust the length as desired, some days you might want it longer than others or you might have people of different heights using it and wanting a different length.

Send Me to the Woods Fabric by Tara Reed

WHAT YOU NEED:

SIDE 1:

(2) 18″ panel squares – I use two from my Send Me to the Woods fabric collection sold through Riley Blake Designs.

1/3 yard coordinating fabric

SIDE 2:
3/4 yard of non-directional fabric

If you don’t have or want to use a panel you can use 3/4 yard of two coordinating, non-directional fabrics, simply follow the direction for Side 2 twice.


CUT YOUR FABRIC

Side 1:

  • CUT (2) 18″ squares from the panel of your choice.

From the coordinating fabric:

  • CUT (2) 4″ x 30″ for the straps
  • CUT (1) 4″ x 18″ for the bag bottom

Side 2:

  • CUT (2) 4″ x 30″ for the straps
  • CUT (1) 18″ x 39 1/2″ for bag sides and bottom

MAKING THE BAG BODY

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 1

See figure 1 for orientation before sewing the bag bottom to the 18″ squares.

CLIP OR PIN the bottom of one of the 18″ square pieces with the 4″ x 18″ bag bottom fabric, right sides together.

SEW with a 1/4″ seam. PRESS towards bottom.

CLIP OR PIN the bottom of the other 18″ square piece to the other side of the 4″ x 18″ bag bottom piece, right sides together.

SEW with a 1/4″ seam. PRESS towards bottom.

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 2
FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 3

FOLD in half from the bottom, right sides together and CLIP OR PIN. (figure 2)

SEW both sides with 1/4″ seam.

FOLD the 18″ x 39 1/2″ Side 2 fabric in half and CLIP OR PIN. (figure 3)

SEW both sides with 1/4″ seam.


CREATING THE BOX CORNERS

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 4

Side 1:

With right sides still together, FOLD the corner to align the side seam in the center.

When centered, it will measure approximately 1 3/4″ to each side of the seam, along the seam where the bag bottom meets the 18″ squares for the side of the bag. (figure 4)

PIN in place and sew to create a box corner.

CUT off the corner, 1/2″ from the stitch line.

REPEAT on the other side.

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 5

SIDE 2:

With right sides still together, FOLD the corner to align the side seam in the center using the same measurements as you did for side 1.

DRAW a line and stitch the box corner. (figure 5)

CUT off the corner, 1/2″ from the stitch line.

REPEAT on the other side.

CHECK your box corners by turning right side out. (figures 6 & 7)

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 6
FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 7

CREATE THE STRAPS

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 8

CLIP OR PIN two 4″ x 30″ fabrics, one of each fabric, right sides together.

SEW along two long sides and one short side using a ¼” seam allowance.

CLIP the corners and TURN right side out.

PRESS.

TOPSTITCH around the three sewn sides, 1/8” from edge. (figure 8)

Raw edge will be sewn into the bag.

REPEAT with the second strap.


ASSEMBLE THE BAG

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 9

RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, place sides 1 & 2 of the bag inside each other, matching side seams. (figure 9)

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 10
FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 11

PLACE a strap in between the two layers of the bag, raw edges lining up with the raw edges of the bag.

FOLD the strap in half to line up the center of the strap with the side seam of the bag. (figure 10)

FLATTEN the strap, line up the side seams of both layers of the bag and CLIP OR PIN in place. (figure 11)

REPEAT to CLIP OR PIN the other strap in place.

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 12
FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 13

CLIP OR PIN the rest of the raw edges of the bag in place. (figure 12)

SEW around the top of the bag with 3/8″ seam, keeping a 4” opening for turning the bag and stitching back and forth twice over the straps to reinforce. (figure 13)

FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 14
FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 15
FREE TUTORIAL: Reversible Crossbody Hobo Bag
figure 16

TURN right side out.

PRESS all sides and opening. (figure 14)

TOPSTITCH around apron 1/8” from edge. (figure 15)

TIE the straps together to create the desired length. (figure 16)

That’s all there is to it! You can use the bag with either side facing out depending on your mood or outfit.

If you make this and share it – be sure to tag me on social media – I’d love to see!

Tara Reed

P.S. Want to see more projects I’ve shared with this fabric collection? CLICK HERE >

Make a Quick Quilt for Outdoor Adventures!

Make a Quick Quilt for Outdoor Adventures!

TUTORIAL: Quick Lodge Themed Quilt from a Fabric Panel

My husband and I went to the Oregon Coast the other day, bright and early to see the tide pools at low tide. When he said, “We should bring a blanket” I instantly thought of the one I made with the panels and fabric from my Send Me to the Woods fabric collection from Riley Blake Designs! I know… beach and woods might not mix where you are from but look at the photo – the two blend perfectly near us! (We went to Cannon Beach, Oregon – my absolute happy place!) The collection has two color variations of the fabric panel, each with four fun sayings featuring my realistic watercolors of animals.
Send Me to the Woods Fabric Panel by Tara Reed
TUTORIAL: Quick Lodge Themed Quilt from a Fabric Panel
Send Me to the Woods Fabric Panel by Tara Reed

HOW TO MAKE THIS QUILT:

I chose 3 squares from the panel and separated them with 2.5″ strips.  I then used strips of 19″ wide fabric with varying heights until I had a piece that measures 55″ h x 19″ wide. Using a 2.5″ strip down the center, I combined the panel section and the strip section. Finally, I added a border with 4″ strips and squares.  I made a simple backing, handed it off to the longarm quilter then bound it! We are ready for adventure from the mountains to the coast. If you make this and share it – be sure to tag me on social media – I’d love to see! Tara Reed P.S. Want to see more projects I’ve shared with this fabric collection? CLICK HERE >
DIY Dog Collar using Fabric Scraps and Nylon Webbing

DIY Dog Collar using Fabric Scraps and Nylon Webbing

Quick & Easy: Make Your Own Dog Collar with Fabric Scraps and Nylon Webbing

Want to make something fun for your dog or for a gift AND use up fabric scraps at the same time? Learn how quick and easy it is to make your own adjustable Dog Collar!

DIY Adjustable Dog Collar

To keep the cost down I cut apart a collar I got at a dollar store so I didn’t have to spend a lot or search near and far for the the buckle, D-ring and slide. Of course they are available in a variety of sizes, styles and colors so if you don’t like what you find, do some investigating!

I used fabric scraps from my Send Me to the Woods fabric collection manufactured and sold by Riley Blake Designs.  See more projects here >

Dog Collar on Nylon supplies

SUPPLY LIST:

(Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.  It’s one of the ways I support my site.)

OPTIONAL (but recommended):

STEP 1: Cut your Nylon Webbing

ADJUSTABLE DOG COLLAR SIZES:

Finished Collar Size Fabric & Nylon Length
16 – 20″ 26″
20 – 24″ 32″

 

Using a match or other flame, carefully melt the ends of the nylon webbing to avoid fraying.

STEP 2: Prepare your Fabric


(The images for this part don’t show the fabric used on the sample collar. The instructions are the same as for the DIY Dog Leash so I decided not to recreate the wheel!)

*NOTE: Sizing is based on a buckle that is 1″ wide – be sure to measure what you are using and adjust the directions accordingly.

Grab your stash and CUT STRIPS that are 1.5″ wide.

SEW them together to form a piece as long as the nylon webbing.

PRESS seams open.

DIY Dog Leash using Fabric Scraps
sew strips of fabric together

Next you will transform your 1.5″ wide fabric strip into a strip that has the raw edges pressed under and now measures 3/4″ (1.9 cm) wide.

There are two basic ways to do this – with a bias tape maker or just using your iron.

Here is how to do both ways, and why I think the bias tape maker is worth investing in the tool if you don’t have it already!

For both methods, I recommend spraying your fabric generously with spray starch to help the creases really hold. You will be working with a large length of fabric so stability for sewing it onto the nylon webbing is desired.

  • Put your fabric strip in a pile on your ironing board.
  • SPRAY generously with starch.
  • ROLL the fabric around to saturate it with the starch and soak up any wetter areas.
  • REAPPLY as you iron if the fabric begins to dry and the folds don’t stay crisp.

METHOD ONE: PREPARING YOUR FABRIC WITH JUST YOUR IRON

If you don’t have and don’t want to get bias tape maker tools, that’s ok!

  • IRON the full length of your fabric in half.
  • OPEN the fabric
  • IRON each long, raw edge in to the center line you just created when you ironed the fabric in half.
  • TURN over and iron again to remove the center fold line.

PRO: You don’t need to buy any equipment (bias tape maker) you don’t already have.
CONS: Takes longer.
A lot of heat and steam coming at your hands!

METHOD TWO: PREPARING YOUR FABRIC WITH A BIAS TAPE MAKER AND YOUR IRON

I’m a huge fan of using a bias tape maker for this as it will save you time and over-steamed fingers, totally worth the investment and you will find other uses for the tools for other projects.

Usually sold in a set of 4 or 5 sizes prices can range from about $7-25 dollars depending on what accessories come with the tools and whether it comes in a storage case or not.

While I use a bias tape maker, I take a few liberties with the process for this project.

  1. I don’t cut my fabric on the bias.  I simply use the tool to press the fabric more quickly and efficiently.
  2. I don’t use the standard size fabric strip for the bias tape maker tool.

Normally you use fabric that is twice the width of the bias tape maker tip.

For a dog leash using 1″ nylon webbing, we want our fabric to be 3/4″ wide.

Bias tape makers are made in mm – using the 18 mm tool you will end up with bias tape that is 5/8″ wide (that extra 1/8″ makes a difference – see photo)

I played around and discovered that I could use fabric a little wider – 1.5″ – to get the result I wanted. You will need to take a little care to make sure the fabric is folding evening and going into the bias tape maker evenly but it works like a charm!

STEP 3: ATTACHING THE FABRIC TO THE NYLON WEBBING

  • CENTER the fabric on top of the nylon webbing.
  • FOLD the raw end under and stitch across the top – leaving about 1/8 – 1/4″ of nylon webbing beyond the fabric.
  • STITCH 1/4″ from the edge of the webbing down one side, across the bottom (also folding raw edge of fabric under to secure) and up the other side.
  • TIP: I like to match my bobbin thread to the nylon so the stitching doesn’t show on the back of the collar and it looks more professional.

STEP 4: SEW THE SLIDE LOCK IN PLACE

THREAD the collar through the slide lock making sure the fabric side is out and the nylon webbing is together.

Pull 2″ through and then STITCH together in a square. Add X through the center for extra strength.


THREAD the collar through one side of the buckle so the fabric is facing OUT.

SLIDE THROUGH the slide lock again.

This took a little finessing with the multiple layers of nylon webbing and fabric, especially where the fabric pieces were sewn together, but with a little patience and gentle effort you will get it! And once you adjust it to your dog you won’t be moving the slide lock again.

STEP 5: ATTACHING THE D-RING AND SNAP SIDE OF THE BUCKLE

The next and final step is to attach the D-Ring and snap side of the buckle to the collar. 

THREAD the fabric through the D-Ring and then the outside opening of the clip half of the buckle. (see photo 1)

THREAD back through the opening closest to the clip half of the buckle. (see photo 2)

PULL ABOUT 4″ THROUGH.

LOOP back through the D-Ring, so the end of the fabric / nylon combo is now sandwiched on the inside. (see photo 3)

Thread the fabric through and CLIP IN PLACE before sewing to make the buckle isn’t backwards. (see photo 4)

SEW through the three layers of collar, going back and forth a few times, in two lines, between the Buckle and the D-Ring.

Because of the bulk of the buckle and the D-Ring it is next to impossible to sew a square and X to reinforce so doing two (or even 3) reinforced lines across will make it secure. (see arrows on the photo for stitch lines I did in the sample)

DIY Adjustable Dog Collar

That’s all there is to it!

You now have a custom, adjustable dog collar for your four legged friend!

If you make this and share it – be sure to tag me on social media – I’d love to see!

🐶 Tara Reed

P.S. Want to make a leash to match? CLICK HERE to see the dog leash tutorial >

Materials Used in this Project:

Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.  It’s one of the ways I support my site.

TUTORIAL: How to make a Pillowcase – Quick & Easy Burrito Method

TUTORIAL: How to make a Pillowcase – Quick & Easy Burrito Method

TUTORIAL: How to make a Pillowcase Using the Quick & Easy Burrito Method & French Seams (no serger required!)

Pillowcases are fun to make to customize your home decor, for kids and they are a great gift idea too.

When my son was little, not only did he love themed sheets based on his interests of the year but he also loved to chose fabric for unique pillowcases. We also made holiday pillowcases for Christmas, Halloween and more.

If you have a lot of kids to give gifts to for the holidays this is a project that moves quickly when you get into the groove. Choose fabrics based on each person’s interests and taste and you will be appreciated for your effort and thoughtfulness!

how to sew a pillowcase by Tara Reed

Pillowcases are also a great project if you are teaching kids to sew.

I spent two days with my 11 year old niece teaching her the basics – this was one of her favorite projects. With only straight cuts and straight seams it was perfect for practicing and building her confidence.

We talked about being safe around the iron, using a rotary cutter and she even mastered French Seams. She gives it two thumbs up!

We kept her pillowcase simple and just use two fabrics – the pinecone main print and a solid cuff – choosing not to add an accent piece. Since she was just learning we decided the fewer pieces that needed to be lined up the better our chances of success!

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

I used fabrics from my Send Me to the Woods collection for this tutorial.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

  • 3/4 yard main fabric
  • 1/4 yard cuff fabric
  • OPTIONAL: 2″ strip WOF accent fabric OR 44″ piping

CUT:

  • Main Fabric – 27″ x WOF
  • Cuff Fabric – 9″ x WOF
  • OPTIONAL: 2″ strip WOF accent fabric OR 44″ piping

Remove selvedges and make sure all pieces are the same width. (You can adjust after sewing the cuff and optional accent strip to the main fabric if it isn’t perfect.)

Sewing the Pillowcase

(If you like video tutorials there is one at the end of the post and on my YouTube channel – are you a subscriber yet?)

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

PRESS Cuff fabric in half, wrong sides together, lengthwise.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method
How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

If you are adding an accent fabric, PRESS in half, wrong sides together, lengthwise.

OPEN Cuff fabric and place RIGHT SIDE UP on your table.

If using an accent fabric or piping, place on top of the cuff fabric, lining up raw edges.

PLACE main fabric, RIGHT SIDE DOWN, on top of the cuff and optional accent.

PIN or CLIP layers in place.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

ROLL the main fabric like a burrito until it is in the middle of the open cuff fabric.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

SEW with 1/4″ seam allowance.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

You will see that all of the raw edges are now encased in the pillowcase cuff.

PRESS the cuff and optional accent fabric flat.

SQUARE sides if they aren’t even from your initial fabric cuts.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

FOLD cuff fabric over the rolled main fabric and line the raw edge with the previously pinned or clipped layers of fabric / raw edges.

ADD the second side of the cuff to the rest, pinning all raw edges together.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

TURN right side out.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

OPTIONAL: Topstitch on the edge of the cuff near the main fabric or accent fabric and/or topstitch the loose end of the accent fabric if desired.

I like to topstitch so the accent fabric doesn’t get wrinkled when the pillowcase is washed. (While I don’t mind ironing when sewing, I’m not a fan of ironing pillowcases on a regular basis!)

Finish with French Seams

French seams aren’t as hard as many imagine and they are a great way to enclose raw edges and prevent fraying. If you have a serger you can simply serge the side and bottom and you will be done. If not, follow these simple steps.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

FOLD fabric in half, wrong sides together.
If there are threads fraying from the raw edges, trim them now so they don’t show outside of your finished seams and need to be cut later.

PIN or CLIP the bottom and sides together then SEW with an 1/8″ seam.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

SEW along the side and bottom again, this time using a 1/4 – 3/8″ seam, making sure you sew beyond the first 1/8″ seam so your raw edges are enclosed in the second stitching or french seam.

TURN right side out, push out corners and press.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

SEW with an 1/8″ seam.

TURN right side out and push out corners.
PRESS seam – pulling seam out tightly.

How to make a Pillowcase - Quick & Easy Burrito Method

As the French would say… VOILA! FINI! (you are done!)

If you make any, I’d love to see!

– Tara Reed

Tag me on Instagram: @artisttarareed
Share it on Pinterest: pinterest.com/artisttarareed

P.S. Want to see more free projects using my  Send Me to the Woods Fabric? CLICK HERE >

TUTORIAL: Christmas Wreath Wall Hanging or Throw Quilt

TUTORIAL: Christmas Wreath Wall Hanging or Throw Quilt

TUTORIAL: How to adjust the FatQuarterShop.com Christmas Wreath Wall Hanging to a Throw Quilt

Christmas Wreath Wall Hanging or Throw Quilt

While scrolling through Instagram a few weeks ago the Fat Quarter Shop posted a free pattern to create the cutest Christmas Wreath wall hanging.  

I instantly knew this would be a great project to create with my Send Me to the Woods fabric that has plenty of green prints and a few red as well!

CLICK HERE to get the Christmas Wreath Wall hanging pattern on the blog at the FatQuarterShop.com

What I loved about the pattern is that it was all straight cuts – pretty quick and easy given the size! The directions are well written and straightforward.

Below are some photos of the process.

Send Me to the Woods Fabric by Tara Reed

FABRIC USED:

I used 4 green prints and two red prints from my Send Me To the Woods collection available through Riley Blake Designs.

TIPS / LESSONS LEARNED:

The pattern calls for 1/2 yard of 6 different green prints. Since I had 4 I wanted to use instead of 6, I did a yard for each of 2 prints and 1/2 yard for the other. (For the equivalent of six 1/2 yard cuts)

In the pattern you sew three REALLY LONG strips and then subcut them.  I found it really helpful to write the length of the subcuts and clip them to the piece as I cut so I didn’t get confused! (see photo in the carousel above.)

Finally – be sure you pay attention to directionality of your fabric as you sew the strips together. I might have put two rows upside down and had to get out my handy seam ripper… d’oh!

Turning the Wall Hanging into a Throw Quilt

After making and admiring my work I started to think about where this 52″ square wall hanging would go… I then decided I wanted to make it a throw quilt instead to give to my mom!

The bow, while pretty and perfect for a wall hanging felt less than ideal for snuggling up on the couch on a cold December night. 

I thought about it for a few days and came up with a simple solution to create an applique bow that gives the same basic look but is more functional as a lap quilt.

Here’s how I did it (and how you can too…)

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt tutorial

RED FABRIC APPLIQUE BOW PIECES

  • (2) 4.25″ x 17″ (for hanging ribbon)
  • (2) 11″ x 8″ (for the bow)
    • MARK 2.5″ from each edge of an 8″ side.
    • CUT a diagonal to the opposite 8″ side from each mark.  This creates the bow that is 11″ wide and 8″ high on one side and 3″ high on the other.
  • (1) 3″ x 3″ square (for the bow center knot)

 

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt tutorial

Using a lightweight fusible fleece (I used Pellon 987F) cut the same size pieces as the applique bow fabric. 

I found the easiest way to do this was to lay each piece of red fabric face down onto the fusible side of the fleece and trim to size.

Using 1/4″ seams, SEW each piece of red fabric to it’s matching fusible fleece piece, making sure to have the right side of the fabric down and the fusible side of the fleece up.

Leave an opening to turn on the part of the piece that will join in the center.

  • on a short end of the ribbon lengths
  • on the 3″ end of the bow
  • on any side of the center knot square

TURN each piece and hand-press – DO NOT IRON (remember that the fusible part of the fleece will be out and we don’t want to attach it to your ironing board!)

You will fuse and quilt the bow in stages instead of all at once so the final result will look more like a bow and now like you quilted around a bow shape.

Applique the Bow to the Quilt

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt tutorial

Put your Wreath Quilt on the ironing board and POSITION the ribbon pieces of your bow where you want them to go.

PRESS into place.

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt tutorial

Go back to the ironing board and PLACE the bow pieces where you would like them.

PRESS in place.

You can play with how much you want them tilted or straight but make sure they are close enough together that the 3″ ends will be covered by the square “knot” in the next step.

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt tutorial

Go back to the ironing board and PRESS the center knot in place.

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt tutorial

QUILT the ribbon pieces in place on your quilt.

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt tutorial

QUILT the bow pieces.

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt tutorial

QUILT the center knot in place. 

Christmas Wreath Throw Quilt

All that’s left to do is wait for Christmas and snuggle up under this festive quilt!

Have a creative day!

Tara

P.S. Want to see other free projects using my Send Me To the Woods fabric? CLICK HERE >

Materials Used in this Project:

Disclaimer: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.  It’s one of the ways I support my site.

I used my Send Me To the Woods fabrics in the sample photos – ask for them where quilt fabric is sold