How to Sew a Stunning Table Topper from a Fabric Panel

How to Sew a Stunning Table Topper from a Fabric Panel

Disclaimer: Some of the links this post may be affiliate and Amazon Associate links where I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
supplies, sewing and a finished table topper for fall

Happy at Home Quilted Table Topper

Finished Size: 27” x 27” | Use ¼” seam allowance unless otherwise stated Read all instructions before beginning | WOF = Width of Fabric

In this detailed quilting tutorial, I’m going to guide you through the process of creating a quilted table topper with this stunning offset square shape. While it does have a lot of corners to bind, I think it’s worth it and I’ll walk you through how to do it every step of the way.

This table topper tutorial features fabric and a panel square from my Happy at Home fabric collection manufactured and distributed by Riley Blake Designs. You can use any 18” square center – from a panel square, quilt block or square of fabric – and the directions will work for you as well! Whether you’re a seasoned quilter or an advanced beginner, you’ll find this project both enjoyable and rewarding

If you prefer to have a printable PDF pattern, you can find it in my Etsy Shop >




  • (1) 18″ pillow panel square, fabric or quilt block
    Welcome to our happy place is from my Happy at Home Fabric Panel from Riley Blake Designs
  • (2) 7½” squares of fabric for the points
  • 30″ square of backing fabric
  • 30″ square of batting
  • (3) 2½” WOF (width of fabric) strips for binding



Do you want an ad-free, printable copy of this online tutorial? Find it in my Etsy shop for just a few dollars. You won’t need to access the internet every time you want to make it.


00:00 introduction
00:30 Supplies
01:38 Cut topper fabrics
01:58 Pin triangles to center
02:21 Sew triangles to center
02:30 Prepare fabrics to quilt
04:10 Quilt your topper
04:20 How to pull up the bobbin thread
04:36 Why to use a walking foot
05:03 Baste fabrics together
05:43 Trim backing & batting to size

07:21 Clip inner points
08:32 Binding the table topper
09:30 Sew binding on a regular corner
10:06 How to Sew binding on an inside corner
12:07 Match the ends of the binding
16:01 Clip binding
16:21 Iron binding to front for machine binding
18:24 Troubleshooting mitered corners
18:57 How to glue baste binding
19:38 Sew on the binding
20:29 Finished table topper

HOW TO sew the Happy at Home Table Topper


  • Square your center image, quilt block or fabric to 18″ square.
  • Cut each 7½” squares of fabric in half diagonally to make the (4) side triangles. (fig. 1)
  • Fold 18″ square in half and finger press. Open the square and lay it right side up on your workspace.
  • Place a triangle, right side down on top of the square, matching the raw edges and lining up the point with the fold you just finger pressed into the square. (fig. 2)
  • Pin or clip in place and add the second triangle to the opposite side.
  • Repeat the process of folding and pinning the triangles to the other two sides. (fig. 3)
  • Sew the triangles to the square with ¼” seams.
  • Press the triangles away from the square to create the topper top.
cut squares diagonally to make 4 triangles

figure 1

line up point of the triangle on the center fold of the square

figure 2

pin triangles to the square

figure 3


You want the backing and batting to be at least 1″ larger than the topper on all sides just in case things shift when quilting. You will need a square of backing and batting that are at least 30″ but you can use bigger pieces and then trim.

  • Lay the backing fabric on your workspace, right side down.
  • Place the batting on top of the backing and make sure it’s laying flat with no air bubble or wrinkles.
  • Place the topper on top of the batting, right side up.
  • Pin together with quilting pins. (fig. 4)
pin the topper, backing and batting to quilt

figure 4


Baste around the outside of your topper shape, about 1/8″ from the edge, with a long stitch. In the video I quilted some of the center square before basting around the outside of the shape – whoops! Normally it’s best practice to baste around the outside FIRST to help hold things in place. Because I had pinned it together well and it wasn’t a large quilt, it worked out fine but I’ll try to be a better quilting role model and baste first in the future. 🤣

Quilt as desired.



Trim the batting and backing to match the topper. (fig. 5) Because of the unique shape, trimming your topper is a little more time consuming than trimming a square or rectangle. Take your time and make sure you don’t cut into the side triangles in you use a rotary cutter.

Watch the video at 5 mins 43 seconds for more details about how I trimmed mine.


I used a simple method for binding the inside corners of this topper that are more eased than mitered. I wanted to keep the project more advanced beginner friendly and not take all day! Here’s how I did it.


You need to clip a very scant ¼” into the angle so you have some give to the fabric and will be able to pull it straight when you sew on the binding. To make sure you cut in the right spot and don’t cut too far, grab a small ruler and a heat erasable pen.

At each inside corner, draw lines ¼” from the raw edge on both sides of the corner, long enough that they intersect. Where the intersect is the point where you will pivot your fabric – more on that in a minute. Clip straight from the corner to just before the pivot point. (fig. 6)

Repeat on all 4 inside corners.

trim backing and batting to size of your table topper

figure 5

clip seam allowance

figure 6


Make your binding by sewing the three strips of fabric together and then pressing in half, matching the raw edges.

If you are new to making quilt binding, here is how to do it. I usually put my strips of fabric together at my machine as I sew.

  • Place one strip of fabric right side up.
  • Take the next piece of fabric and place it on top of the first strip, at a 90 degree angle, right side down, with the ends close to each other but not exact if you didn’t remove the selvages. (I never do, it’s just an extra step!) I always have my second strip coming towards me and not hanging down into my lap. It will be a square where the two strips overlap. (fig. 7)
  • Draw a diagonal line from one overlapping point to the other. (fig. 8)
  • If you are using directional fabric, place your hand or truler on the line and fold the top fabric down to make sure the direction of the fabric will be the same. (fig. 9)
  • Sew along the line and trim ¼” from the stitching to remove the triangles.
  • Repeat and add the third strip of fabric, moving your fabric down so the 2 pieces you just sewed together become the strip that starts right side up.
  • Press the seams open and trim and dog ears, or triangles, that go beyond the sides of the fabric strips. (fig. 10)
  • Press the full length of the fabric in half, matching raw edges.
layer right sides together to join quilt binding strips

figure 7

draw a line for sewing binding strips together

figure 8

checking direction of binding strips when you use directional fabric

figure 9

cut dog ears off quilt binding strips

figure 10


Hand Binding:
Sew the binding on the front, press to the back and sew by hand. That is the most traditional way to sew on binding and leaves an invisible finish. It is also the most time consuming.

Machine Binding Method 1:
Sew the binding on the front, press to the back and sew the binding on with your machine. There are plusses and minuses to this method. The binding on the front will be smaller – ¼” – but when you sew the binding on the back you will have a stitch line on the front that is beyond the visible binding. If your binding is a consistent distance all the way around this can look like a decorative stitch but sometimes it’s not as even as you’d like.

Machine Binding Method 2:
Sew the binding on the back, press to the front and sew the binding on with your machine. This is the method I used on my table topper and in the video tutorial. The binding is a little bigger on the front this way but then you only have one stitch line on the front and it’s on the edge of the binding for a polished look.

Follow the directions placing the binding on the front or back, depending on which way you decide to bind your topper.

Do you want an ad-free, printable copy of this online tutorial? Find it in my Etsy shop for just a few dollars. You won’t need to access the internet every time you want to make it.


Start your binding on one of the bottom triangle sides. These are the longest areas on the topper and will be the least difficult to match and sew the two ends of the binding together. (I’m not going to lie – it’s a little tricky but it works!)

Leave an 8-10″ tail and begin sewing the binding to one of the triangle sides, about 1½” from the point. (fig. 11)


  • When you get ¼” from the end, leave your needle down, lift your presser foot, pivot 45 degrees and sew off the point. (fig. 12) Cut the thread and remove from your machine.
  • Fold the binding up and away from the next section of fabric you need to bind so that the raw edge is lined up with the raw edge of your topper fabric. (fig. 13)
  • Fold the binding back down towards the fabric, making sure the fold of the binding is lined up with the raw edge you just sewed. (fig. 14) If you don’t get that fold lined up well you won’t get a nice mitered corner when you flip and press the binding.
  • Sew the next section, starting off the binding, ¼” from the edge and continue until you get to your next inside or outside corner.
stitch off the outside corner when binding a quilt

figure 12

step 1 in folding quilt binding on an outside corner

figure 13

how to fold quilt binding to get a good outside mitered corner

figure 14


Inside corners are trickier than outside corners. I’m going to show you the easiest way to get them done. Grab your ruler and heat erasable pen because we are going to be drawing lines on the binding just like we did on the topper when making the small cuts in those inside angles.

When you are sewing your binding onto your topper and you are a few inches from the inside corner, stop sewing but leave the needle and presser foot down so they won’t move.

    find the pivot point to bind an inside angle on a quilted project

    figure 15

    • Draw lines on the binding, ¼” from the raw edge on both sides of the corner, long enough that they intersect. The line that is on the side of the angle that you will pivot to should line up with the line you drew previously. (fig. 15) You now have the pivot point on the binding.
    • Continue sewing the binding, stopping with the needle down at the pivot point, or where the two lines you just drew intersect. Lift the presser foot.
    • Gently pull the edge of the topper in front of the needle so that it forms a straight line with the part of the topper you just sewed that is behind the needle and making sure it lines up with the edge of your ¼” presser foot. (Or if you aren’t using a ¼” presser foot, make sure the edge is lined up so you will continue sewing ¼” from the edge.) (fig. 16) You can make this adjustment because of the clip you made in the seam allowance in the angle before.
    • Continue sewing the binding all the way around your topper until you get back to the straight section where you started.

    You can watch this process on the video at 10 mins. 6 seconds.


    As I mentioned before, matching the binding on such a small section is tricky but doable. You can watch this process in the video starting at 12 mins. 7 seconds.

    • Sew your binding just past the last inside angle, knot the thread and remove from the sewing machine.
    • To make explaining this process easier, I’m going to refer to “binding A” and “binding B”. (fig. 17)
    • Binding A is the beginning of the binding – the original tail you left when you started sewing the binding to your topper.
    • Binding B is the other end of the binding – the amount you still have after going all the way around and getting to this point of needing to match the ends.
    • Cut a 2″ piece of fabric off the longest end of binding B, you will use this as a guide (we will call it “fabric guide”) for how long to cut each tail of binding so they match up perfectly. (fig. 18)
    • Place the binding A tail flat on your topper, lining up the raw edges.
    • Open the 2″ piece of binding you just cut and place it flattened on top of the original binding tail with the fold going across the binding at 90 degree angle. Place the fabric guide so the 2 ends are in the middle of the space where the binding isn’t sewn down.
    • Cut binding A using the far side (the side that is on the opposite side of where the binding is sewn to your topper) of the fabric piece as your guide. (fig. 19)
    labeling binding parts A and B

    figure 17

    cut a piece of binding to use as a fabric guide to match quilt binding every time

    figure 18

    where to cut binding with fabric guide

    figure 19

    • Place binding A and the fabric guide back down on your project, keeping the raw edges and cut edge lined up.
    • Now place binding B on top of these pieces, lining up the raw edges. (fig. 20)
    • You will use the fabric guide again but you will cut binding B on the opposite side of the fabric piece. (fig. 21)

    The fabric guide lets you cut your binding so the length with be perfect when you sew the two sides together. When I learned this way of matching binding it felt like life-changing magic!

    Now that your two ends are cut it’s time to sew them together. First, grab your seam ripper (I love this one) and remove the stitches on each side, leaving only a few before each corner. You need as much freedom to move these binding pieces as possible to get a good match.

    Fold the topper in the area between the binding A & B and pin so you have more room to work on matching and sewing the binding together. (fig. 22)

    layer top binding piece

    figure 20 

    how to cut quilt binding to match

    figure 21

    matching quilt binding on a table topper

    figure 22

    • Place binding A, right side up, flat on your workspace or machine.
    • Place binding B, right side down, on top of binding A, lining up the edges as shown. (fig. 23)
    • Draw a diagonal line through the square formed where the 2 pieces overlap and sew. (fig. 24)
    • Because there isn’t a lot of extra space / give on this, I don’t pin the pieces together but just hold them and move right to sewing on the line so they won’t shift.
    • Once you sew on the diagonal line, remove the pin from the topper and make sure your binding is correct before trimming the excess triangle ¼” from the stitched line. Every so often you might flip binding B the wrong way and end up with a twist in your binding – if you cut the excess before checking it’s a lot harder to remove the stitching and fix the mistake.Press the seam open, line up the raw edges and re-press the binding so it has a nice fold (it usually gets a little loose after all the steps to match the ends).
    • Sew the rest of the way so your binding is attached all the way around your topper.
    how to layer quilt binding strips

    figure 23

    sewing quilt binding strips together

    figure 24


    • Take your topper back to the ironing board with the side you sewed the binding on facing up.
    • Press the binding away from the topper.
    • Turn the topper over, fold the binding over the edge and towards the opposite side of the topper and press. I press the outside mitered corners first and then press the eased inner angles.

    You can see that process in the video starting at 16 mins. 21 secs.


    If you will hand stitch your binding, pin the pressed binding, grab your needle and thread and sew the binding on.

    If you will machine stitch the binding, I recommend glue basting the binding in place. This helps the binding from shifting and puckering when you sew it onto your topper.

    • Using washable school glue, run a small line of glue under the edge of the binding. (fig. 25)
    • You can then press the binding down, clip in place and allow to dry before sewing OR you can press the binding with an iron (no steam) to dry the glue and get sewing right away.
    • Once the glue is dry, sew close to the edge, all the way around the binding. Choose your thread and bobbin colors based on your fabrics and whether you want the stitching to blend in or stand out.

    That’s it – you’re done! Enjoy your table topper!

    glue basting binding

    figure 25

    Happy at Home Table Topper and runner
    buy an ad-free, printer friendly Happy at Home Table Topper pattern on Etsy

    Love this idea?

    If you post on Instagram be sure to tag me (@artisttarareed). Follow my YouTube channel for new sewing projects and tips every week.

    🧵 Tara Reed

    P.S. Is there a sewing tutorial you’d love to see? Leave me a comment and I’ll add it to my idea list!



    More Happy at Home fabric projects >

    My favorite sewing supplies >

    Over the Collar Dog Bandana – The Easy Way to Sew

    Over the Collar Dog Bandana – The Easy Way to Sew

    Disclaimer: Some of the links this post may be affiliate and Amazon Associate links where I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
    Dog bandanas for Halloween

    Why you will fall in love with sewing an over the collar dog bandana

    If you’re a proud dog owner, you know how important it is to pamper your furry friend with love and care. One way to show your affection and creativity is by sewing your own over the collar dog bandana. Over the collar bandanas are often easier than a bandana you tie around the dog’s neck because you don’t have to be as exact in the size and you don’t risk tying it too tightly. (If you prefer the kind that ties, I have a tutorial for that too.)


    — Why sew your own dog bandana —

    Let’s look a few of the advantages of sewing over the collar dog bandanas and why more and more pet parents are opting to create these stylish accessories themselves.

    Personalization: Adding a Touch of Flair

    When you sew your own dog bandanas, you have the freedom to add a personal touch that perfectly matches your dog’s unique character.

    Whether you choose fun patterns, stylish designs, add embellishments or even embroider their name on the fabric, you can create a one-of-a-kind accessory that will make your furry friend stand out in the dog park.

    Cost-Effective: Budget-Friendly Fun

    Sewing your own dog bandanas can be a cost-effective alternative to buying them from pet stores. With just a few materials, you can create multiple bandanas for the price of one store-bought option. Plus, it’s an enjoyable and rewarding hobby that allows you to bond with your pet while being gentle on your wallet.

    Use your Fabric Scraps

    If you are like most sewists and quilters you probably have a stash of scrap fabric just waiting for a project. Well this might be just what you’ve been looking for!

    A 10″ square of fabric makes a great size for a medium to large size dog and has a 1.5″ opening for the collar. The final size is 10″ on the colar and hangs down 6.5″ from the top, long side.

    A 12″ square of fabric makes a great size for a medium to large size dog and has a 2″ opening for the collar. The final size is 12″ on the colar and hangs down 8″ from the top, long side.

    Great for Gifts, Fundraisers or Things to Sew and Sell

    If you are looking for easy things to make that dog (or cat!) owners will love, you can’t go wrong with a bandana. Make seasonal bandanas, holiday dog bandanas or just choose a fabric that fits the pup’s personality.

    If you are a crafter with a Cricut or other cutting machine, I have lots of dog bandana sayings you can add with heat transfer vinyl. See all the options in my Etsy Shop.

    Crib Sheet sewing supplies


    Fabric shown in this tutorial are my October Ghosts prints from Riley Blake Designs.

    Over the Collar Dog Bandana Size Chart

    00:00 introduction
    00:15 Make Collar Channel
    01:00 Sew bandana together
    01:16 How to use a Magnetic Seam Guide Ruler
    01:34 Sew Dog Collar Channel

    Love this idea?

    Leave a comment and let me know who you will be making dog bandanas for and if you post on Instagram be sure to tag me (@artisttarareed) if you use this tutorial so I can see what fabric you used.

    Follow my YouTube channel for new projects every week.

    🧵 Tara Reed

    P.S. Is there a sewing tutorial you’d love to see? Leave me a comment and I’ll add it to my idea list!



    Sewing for Dogs & Dog Craft Project Round Up >

    How to sew a reversible over the collar dog bandana >

    How to Sew the Perfect Sized Dog Bandana that ties on >

    Dog Bandana Quotes for Cricut on Etsy >

    How to Sew Easy Coasters for Hanukkah Gifts

    How to Sew Easy Coasters for Hanukkah Gifts

    hanukkah fabrics clipped together to make coasters

    Let’s Sew Coasters for Hanukkah

    If you are looking for Hanukkah Gifts to make that won’t take forever or break the bank then you will love these coasters!

    They are a great way to show your appreciation, things to make and sell or to sew for your own Hanukkah home.

    Let me show you the easiest way to make coasters that are cute as can be!

    I used the Hanukkah Nights fabric I designed for Riley Blake Designs in the images and the September  leaves fabric from the Monthly Placemat Program in the video tutorial.


    sewing Hanukkah coasters
    sewing Hanukkah coasters
    sewing Hanukkah coasters


    • Fabric
      (5) 5″ squares / coaster
    • (1) 4 1/2″ square Fusible Fleece / coaster
      (I used Pellon 987F)
    • Thread
    • Sewing Machine
    • Ironing Board
    • Rotary Cutter & Mat (optional)

    fabric for coaster sets

    For a set of 4 coasters:

    • (20) 5″ squares of fabric
    • (4) 4 ½” square of fusible fleece (Pellon 987F)

    For a set of 6 coasters:

    • (30) 5″ squares of fabric
    • (6) 4 ½” square of fusible fleece (Pellon 987F)

    00:00 introduction
    01:16 Determine the size
    02:49 Supplies
    03:21 Determine length of straps
    04:52 Fuse fleece to lining
    06:38 Iron Clip Loop
    07:38 Cut box bottoms
    08:57 Add optional tag
    09:28 Clip or Pin fabrics
    10:18 Sew
    11:50 Sew strap pieces together
    13:06 Form straps with fleece
    16:27 Sew straps
    17:18 Assemble the water bottle holder
    19:44 Add the clasp
    20:37 Sew together
    20:57 Turn right side out
    21:24 Close the turning opening
    22:07 Topstitch to finish

    These easy fabric coasters are awesome – no curves, no binding and they go together in a snap! I think you’re going to be as hooked on this method as I am.

    If you prefer written instructions with pictures, go to this post.

    This is a great project to showcase your creativity and make thoughtful gifts for family and friends.

    🧵 Tara Reed


    How to make a key fob keychain >

    How to make a lip balm holder >

    More Hanukkah projects >

    New Fabric Sneak Peek – Happy at Home Fabric

    New Fabric Sneak Peek – Happy at Home Fabric

    New Fabric Sneak Peek – Happy at Home Fabric

    Happy at Home Fabric by Tara Reed for Riley Blake Designs - storyboard

    If people had taglines, mine would be HAPPY AT HOME

    Happy at Home – these 3 words describe me to a T! Home is where I create, dream, work, and live. My husband and I (and a few dozen contractors) have transformed an old 1923 craftsman fixer upper in Portland, Oregon into a home we both adore.

    We’ve put our fingerprint on every space and every surface – remodeling bathrooms and the kitchen and painting and decorating. We created work spaces for me to paint, sew, craft and build my business.  25 years of licenses plates from different places I’ve lived have even been even incorporated on the basement stairs and the Little Free Library I built when we first moved in.

    To me ,“HOME” is more than just the physical space and the things that are in it – it’s a feeling.

    It’s the safe place go when you are both happy and sad. The place and people that just feel right. I feel fortunate to do work that I love from a place that always feels like home. Wishing you joy, creativity and love – from my home to yours.

    Watch the Sneak Peek of my latest fabric collection for Riley Blake Designs: Happy at Home

    With 8prints, each in 3 colorways, (one in four colorways!), a fabric panels and free pattern from Riley Blake, this collection of 100% cotton quilting fabric is sure to be a hit.

    00:00 Introduction
    01:13 New Fabric Prints and panel
    02:47 Tara Reed’s home sweet home
    03:08 Tara Reed’s art studio
    03:49 Tara Reed’s sewing space

    See the full Happy at Home Storyboard with skus and wholesale order information on the Riley Blake Designs website.

    The fabric will ship in August 2023. If you are a shop or online retailer, contact your rep or Riley Blake directly to pre-order. If you are a consumer, put it on your wishlist and ask your favorite source for quilting fabrics to carry the line.

    🪺 🏡  Tara Reed

    How to Easily Match Quilt Binding Tutorial

    How to Easily Match Quilt Binding Tutorial

    The Secret to Matching Quilt Binding you’ll wish someone taught you already

    Quilt binding is the finishing touch that can make or break the overall look of your quilt or other sewing project. To match quilt binding perfectly can be a daunting task, but with the right techniques and tools, it can be done easily and quickly.


    simple way to Match Quilt Binding quickly

    How to bind a quilt

    Step 1: Measure Your Quilt

    Before you can start matching your quilt binding, you need to measure your quilt to determine how much binding you’ll need. Measure the perimeter of your quilt, add 10-12 inches for the corners and the end, and multiply by two to get the total length of binding needed.

    Step 2: Cut Your Binding Strips

    Cut 2 1/2 inch binding strips from the fabric of your choice. You can use the same fabric as your quilt top or a coordinating fabric.  The length of your strips should be the same as the total length of binding needed.

    Step 3: Join Your Strips

    To create a continuous length of binding, join your strips together at a 45-degree angle. Place one strip right side up and the other strip right side down on top of it, with the edges aligned. Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the other and sew along the line. Trim the excess fabric, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance, and press the seam open.

    Step 4: Press Your Binding

    Fold your binding in half lengthwise and press it with an iron. This will help you create a clean, crisp finish when you attach the binding to your quilt.

    Step 5: Attach Your Binding

    Starting in the middle of one side of your quilt, align the raw edges of your binding with the raw edges of your quilt. Leave a 10-inch tail of binding at the beginning and start sewing with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. When you reach a corner, stop sewing 1/4 inch from the end, turn at a 45-degree angle and sew off the corner of the quilt. Fold the binding up and away from the quilt top, creating a 45-degree angle. Then, fold the binding back down, aligning it with the edge of the next side of your quilt. Start sewing again at the top edge of your binding, leaving a 6-inch tail at the end.

    Step 6: Finish Your Binding

    Watch the video to see this almost magical way to match quilt binding with ease!

    Step 7: Fold and Stitch Your Binding

    Fold your binding over the raw edges of your quilt and secure it in place with pins. Then, stitch the binding in place by hand or using a needle and thread or with your sewing machine, making sure to catch both the front and back of your quilt.

    In this video tutorial, I’ll show you how to match quilt binding the easy way so it’s perfect every time.


    This technique made me really nervous the first few times I tried it but I can tell you from experience – it works!

    So whether you’re a beginner or an experienced quilter, these tips and techniques will help you create a beautiful finished product that you’ll be proud to display.

    🧵 Happy Sewing!

    Tara Reed


    More free sewing projects >

    Quilt Block Tutorials >